I had an unambitious plan for today. Only 13 miles and 5000 feet elevation gain. I had gone to bed early (around 8:30) because of my troubled stomach, and was up at 5:15, so was imagining I’d be at my destination around 2 pm.
In the spirit of bad luck comes in threes, after breaking two poles yesterday I discovered my new watch had broken in exactly the same way as the last one, part of the side bit that holds the wrist band to the watch snapped off. I think this happened both times because I was tired of the watch face always falling down under, so I tightened the strap. Then when I flex an arm muscle it must create enough tension to snap the watch.
The hiking was pleasant, the weather scattered clouds, breezy and not too hot. But it was strenuous! I now know why they said the rocky sections of Pennsylvania are good practice for the Whites. About a third of the miles are climbing up a very steep path of jumbled large rocks, a third are climbing down similar jumbles, and a third are relatively modest slopes that feel like normal hiking. The up third can be overwhelming. You look up and see thirty yards of randomly placed rocks at a 45 degree angle, and you think, how am I going to get up that? Then you muddle through and get to the top of that, and see another thirty yards of rock to climb.
In a way having no poles was good. These scrambles are probably easier and safer to do hands free. You need to keep grabbing edges of rock to stabilize yourself, or tree branches or trunks. I suspect a lot of poles get broken on those rock piles. I can’t say I missed my poles.
I stopped at a shelter for lunch, where I briefly met three thru hikers who had started in late February – Sis, Butterfly and Magic Dragon. They were hiking with a fourth, Sitch, and they were waiting for him to return from the privy. They had a more ambitious 16 mile goal.
There were several stunning views from near the summit of Kinsman mountain. I got there around 4. So much for being in camp by 2. It took almost another hour to get the one mile down to the shelter at Kinsman Pond.
The caretaker’s canvas tent is the first thing you encounter on the shelter trail. There I met Mose, a lad of around 22, who sold me an AMC thru hiker pass for $10. That gets me one night at an AMC shelter or campsite. $5 for subsequent nights, and some free food at some of the huts. Considering the shelter is in excellent shape with a bear box right beside it, the $10 seems like a fair fee.
So far I’m the only one in the shelter. I met a couple from Quebec at the cooking area, and when I heard them speaking French I spoke French to them, although I hate to admit that I had to ask them to repeat almost every question they asked me. I’m not sure how old he is, but she’s still in a Cegep so can’t be much older than 18. They are staying one night in the Whites then camping somewhere else tomorrow before the three hour drive back to Montreal on Monday.
Tomorrow I have five miles of mostly descent to get to a side trail that takes me to a road, where I hope to hitch into Lincoln NH for resupply and pole replacement. Not sure how far I’ll get tomorrow. Probably no more than today. Much depends on where the shelters or official campsites are, as with all the steep slopes it seems like stealth camping could be a real challenge. There just isn’t anywhere flat and clear to pitch a tent on.
Mile 1806.8 to mile 1819.8 = 13.0 miles
